The Search Ends Here

It's been a while since I've made a mark here. With the Christmas season in full swing, not only am I busy with my daily routines at work, I've also been out on a few more catering events than most months. This month-and-a-half build up for one 'special' day is growing more tiring year after year, this Christmas I plan on sleeping in and relaxing my mind with a good dinner and an abundance of gin & tonic. So grateful I will be after the next 2 weeks are over.

So an update is needed... I guess I failed, or rather my body failed me. It turns out, raw food and my already troubled digestive system don't mix very well. Although cooking fruits and vegetables diminishes some of the nutritional value, I don't have strong enough digestive enzymes to extract the required nutrients anyways. Therefore, the cooking process helps to soften the plant tissues helping my system acquire what nutrients are left a lot easier.

If you're like me and have any sort of digestive problem, think twice about the raw food diet. I got sick quite easily, suffering from migraines and becoming quite lethargic. My search for better health ends and starts again right here. Well.... maybe after Christmas.

In Search of Good Health

My entire culinary career has been devoted to providing not only tasty but well balanced meals to people of every age. Why is it then that I tend to neglect my own health? After working shifts, churning out meal after meal, I would usually get to the point of eating whatever scraps I could muster up. Never really worrying (or thinking) about proper nutrition, just as a means to get something.... anything in my stomach, so I can survive long enough to do it again the next day.

I just turned thirty a couple weeks ago. This opened my eyes to how fast I'm growing old and made me realize not only do I have a responsibility to provide healthy options for my customers, I really need to do the same for myself.

I've been doing a lot of research lately for a means to not only cleanse my body of the abuse I've put it through but also start to build better eating habits for myself. So for the next month I'll be going on a complete raw food diet, with the exception of milk (although it will be grass fed organic or goat's milk). I've mapped out my meal plans and grocery lists, accounted for the amounts of each item I should be ingesting to my system and have my trusty Centrum multi-vitamins to keep my mineral balance in check. I've come to learn that with a raw food diet it's all about balance, not exceeding one type of nutrient for another and keeping an eye on maintaining a proper alkaline level.

This first week is my transition period as it's not healthy to jump straight into this diet. Then after that I'll be updating regularly on what I've been eating, along with recipes and progress reports on how I feel physically and any changes that may arise.

Culinary Innovation

Decoding Ferran Adria, in my eyes, has been one of the most inspirational documented looks into creative culinary adventure in a long time. A blend of science while still based around the focus on elevating an ingredients natural taste. The development of dishes with strong concentration on a complete sensory wow factor. Now that's creation.

Hosted by Anthony Bourdain, another true culinary explorer.

Watch and enjoy.

Cooking vs Creation

The story from the beloved movie Ratatouille taught us that "anyone can cook". I agree. I believe anyone can be taught how to follow a recipe and execute it properly. It's being done daily in restaurants, hotels and schools world wide.

However, it's one thing to build a career in this industry following others visions, being told what to make and how to make it. It's another thing completely to have an idea spark in your own mind, to take that and build upon it, forming your own creative aspect and delivering on it from start to finish. This to me is the real test.

We are all on a culinary journey.... it's up to you whether you want to create your own path or are just happy being along for the ride.

Dinner - Part. 2 - Braised Beef Short Ribs

Some may see spending over five hours of preparations to eat a meal a bit excessive. I see it as being such a strong love for accomplished creation and having a warm sense of comfort in my belly. Some may say that it's a waste of time and energy. I say it's my time and energy and I'll spend it however makes me feel complete. It's not every day I cook like this, most of the time I either eat dinner at work or it's something whipped up with what odds and ends are left in the fridge. So on those days I can do something special, I certainly will.

First step is cook out and slightly caramelize some onion.

As stated in part 1, I went to the butcher and picked up some beautiful beef short ribs. Season and sear both sides.

Once nicely browned, add wine. I used Casillero del Diablo Merlot 2007.

Pouring about a cup and a half into the sizzling pan, let that reduce for about a minute to cook off some of the alcohol.

Back in go the onions.

Then add some canned whole Roma tomatoes, the stock made in part 1 and a cinnamon stick.

Bring up the temp of the liquid, cover with aluminum foil and place in a 350 degree oven.

Next, boil some nugget potatoes with rosemary, bay leaf, garlic and coarse sea salt. When cooked, strain and set aside until short ribs are done.

About an hour and a half later out come the short ribs. Reduce sauce until thickened. Whisk in some butter to help pull the sauce all together.

Potatoes get flashed back in the oven with duck fat to glaze.

Then finished with a smoked cherry wood sea salt.

Cook some sort of veg, I chose asparagus.
Plate and eat.

Dinner - Part. 1 - Beef Stock

We move forward, but always for the best? A steady progression of society has caused a want or desire for things to be fast and easy. Sometimes though, this forces on us a drop in quality. The days of people taking the time to make their own stocks, braise a piece of meat, slow roast or even confit have long since past, these techniques no longer being common practice in the home. We've become too familiar with the convenience of watered down stock in a tetra-pak, soup in a can or pre-made IQF (Individually Quick Frozen) dinners. Putting an actual effort into dinner once in a while is not hard to do, it just takes some time and patience.

Off to see the butcher, marrow bones and beef short ribs (for what's to come in part 2) first on my shopping list. I like to use marrow bones because the marrow helps to give a little more flavour. The end result helped to make this a pretty strong stock. So, bones in the oven to be roasted.

When nice and brown they are removed and placed into a pot with fresh sprigs of rosemary and thyme, bay leaves, whole black peppercorns, coarse sea salt and a few cloves.

Next comes the mire poix, the standard carrot, celery and onion mix with a half a head of garlic. Into the same pan the meat came from and back in the oven for roasting. Once the vegetables have sweat out their juices and are starting to colour, add tomato paste. I used a bit more tomato paste than average because I wanted it to have a slight tomato taste to mix with the beefy marrow taste.

Place the veg back in the oven for another two minutes or so, you'll see the tomato paste drying and the veg becoming more caramelized. It's time for the wine.... I used a cheap but tasty Casillero del Diablo Merlot 2007. Put back in the oven for another minute, the wine will reduce a bit and glaze the veg.

Put the vegetables in the pot and use a spatula to get all the wine and tomato paste in. Fill with water, bring to a boil and reduce to low heat so there is just a slight rolling boil.

Skim the surface to remove impurities.

Repeat as necessary, until the surface is clear. Cook for at least 3 hours.

Pour the stock through a fine strainer into another pot. Bing to a boil and reduce liquid by almost half.

Allow to cool and refrigerate....

.......Stay tuned for part 2

All Hallows' Eve

Another Halloween come and gone. Streets littered with extinguished fireworks and broken pumpkin pieces. Young kids awaken with a belly ache and old kids with a hangover.

Treats for weeks ahead of time, preparation for last nights events..... teeth crying in pain. My dentist is going to love me.

Rant: Too many restaurants, not enough good food!

Attention to a select group of restaurant owners....

Why the lack of focus on good food? Have we as people become so mundane in our eating habits that you think feeding us any old slop will do? I don't care about your state of the art decor or beautiful magazine model servers flashing their chest. Some of the best food I've ever had the pleasure of tasting has been in some dumpy little places, with old haggard looking waitresses. That is all OK with me, I'm there to pay for a good meal not your interior designers costs. Find good cooks and pay them according, they really are the backbone of your business (since you are in the business of food).

If I wanted to eat bad food and have tits thrown in my face for a good tip, I'd go to a strip club. At least there I'm not obligated to eat the bad food.

A Memorable Feast

I sit at my computer with a semi-lost gaze and a mind that's clouded. Maybe it's stress but I'm sure it's just a desire to take a 'time-out' from life, escape back into that place of little to no worry and let my head become clear and refreshed so I can return to tackle the everyday. I need a vacation, as I'm sure a lot of us constantly do. Unfortunately, right now is not a feasible time to do so, so I pop in a CD of pictures from vacations past.... not nearly the same, but it'll get me through until I can physically escape once again.

My last "real" vacation was Taiwan just over a year ago. I've done a week back in Ontario since, but I hardly think that counts as I was running around more than anything. Looking back at my short stint in Asia, I've come to realize how much I love the culture, people and especially food. In fact, my most memorable meal to date was on that trip.

As night grew, the muggy heat seemed to calm only slightly with the absence of sun. With Laura by my side and Lei and Atai leading, we make our way through a maze of streets in the busy downtown of Taipei. Turning down one road that I would more commonly describe as an alley we come to a tiny restaurant, maybe 15 seats total and all situated around a long bar. My curiosity is peaked as I'm told we are going to have Japanese BBQ..... With BBQ being amongst my top 5 preparations of food, excitement fills me and I prepare my palate.

We take our seats and are handed menus, some Asahi beer quickly follows as we make up our minds of what to partake in. Leaving the decisions to my fantastic hosts, I sit back ready to indulge. Two small cast iron pots filled with very hot coals is placed in front of us and a small wire mesh screen is placed on top. Soon after our food arrives. Anchovies, octopus, very thinly sliced beef and various other meats and seafood.... all raw. I can figure out what's next, so chopsticks in hand I toss some on. Something about food cooking in front of my eyes is a sight I'll never take for granted. The beauty of that process, to see the colours change and the smells begin to mix causing a mouth watering effect.

Food done and no time to wait, down the gullet it goes. The conversation flows just as fluidly as the beer to my stomach. I begin to glow, realizing this is the kind of moment my life was created to experience.....

....Snap back to reality. I glance at my clock, 11:30am. It's that time. I muster up the strength.... work demands yet again. Soon I'll be able to regain that state of mental bliss, but until that day I'll have the memories like these to get me through.

Easy as pie.... or Yorshire Pudding!

Honestly, who can resist those golden brown airy pillows of pure love. I'll admit making hundreds can be a bit more work, but with a dinner for two virtually no effort more than patience is required.... the proof is in the pudding.

Ingredients:

1/2C Flour

1 Egg

190ml Homogenized milk

pinch of salt

2 tsp Bacon fat

1. Mix together flour, salt and egg. pour in milk and whisk until no lumps remain.

2. Pass mixture through a fine strainer into a cup for easy pouring. Cover with saran and let sit for at least 30 min.

3. During this wait time preheat oven to 350F and place muffin tin on middle shelf to heat.

4. After the rest period, put 1 tsp of bacon fat in two of the muffin cups, place back in the oven for a minute to heat the fat.

5. Pour the mix to the top of each cup, place back in the oven and let the magic begin.

6. Approx 20 - 30 min later they should look big, beautiful golden brown and when lightly squeezing the sides there should be no squishy center.

7. Pop out and enjoy.

Safe to Eat?

Mmmmmm...... Looks delicious. I want nothing more than to turn that beautiful mass of fine ground beef into some of the most mouth-watering burgers (quite possibly my favorite food ever is a nice thick and juicy hand-made burger). This being said, I cannot possibly forgive when an establishment (prized for their so-called "quality" burgers) serves me a potential health risk (can you say burnt outside, raw inside?), luckily being caught only 2 bites in. Trust me when I say that I have not and will not go back.

It might just be me, but I've noticed that within the past 10 years we've been playing a little Russian Roulette with some of our food.... whether or not we know it. It's almost becoming common for people to become subject to a day of gut wrenching pain, sweats, shits and horrible thoughts of killing whoever mishandled or fed you that questionable ingredient. I know for certain I never want to experience it again.

But what happens when it not the dirty kitchen or the cook that doesn't care enough about your safety? What happens when the food is tainted from the source? I'm sorry to the Republic of China, but melamine in milk, baby formula and some milk based products...... are you kidding me? Maybe though I shouldn't be as shocked as that, it's not really the first or last time something like this is going to happen.

Case in point, let's bring it home with a little thing called Maple Leaf Listeria. Not only was this so recent there are still people dying from the symptoms, but of the deceased was a 64 year old man who ate tainted meat in a hospital. Come on... That's ridiculous! And as of October 1 there have been upwards of 20 deaths due to this contamination.

Tops Meat Co. is another name that pops into mind when I think of tainted meat. In 2007 they had the second largest recall of meat at around 21.7 million pounds worth, topped only by Hudson Foods Company who in 1997 recalled 25 million pounds worth of ground beef.

None can forget the scares associated with Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy, most commonly known as Mad Cow Disease. This epidemic was brought on by the food the cow was eating, therefore being infected before even going to slaughter. In England alone more than 163 people have died as a result and over 4.4 million cattle have been slaughtered as per the eradication process.

Avian flu, a hybrid super-bug that is able to infect more species than a normal flu virus and is also lethal to humans. A wide spread pandemic across most of Asia, Europe and parts of Africa.

Almost makes me want to become a vegetarian...... but wait, just recently in 2008 there was a huge recall of fresh jalapeño and Serrano peppers, fresh tomato, green onion and cilantro from Mexico due to a salmonellosis outbreak. Also in 2006 there was another huge recall of both fresh spinach and lettuce across all of North America due to e. coli......

Wondering as I walk the aisles of my local market, picking up products and placing them in my cart. Does this food have the potential to seriously injure or kill me? How is this going to change in the future? I know I'm going to be keeping my eyes and ears wide open, but I don't want to have to question my food. I want to enjoy it.

These Are the Markets In My Neighbourhood

Not long ago I watched a two part documentary entitled "Supermarket Secrets". Releasing the truths behind the "factory farms", some producing mass gallons of milk daily to the ones littering a floor with highly developing super chickens. Produce that must go through the most rigorous beauty tests imaginable. Farmers finding sometimes up to half their crop rejected at the farmers cost. Imported year-long (yet supposed to be seasonal) fruit and veg, having little to no taste. That one pisses me off..... I didn't lose my taste-buds, so where did it go?

I also have a pretty strong stomach when it comes to the thought of 'where most food comes from'. Meats, fish and poultry (most likely now butchered by machine) presented in their shiny saran coating, held securely by a piece of Styrofoam and perched on top, what some of my friends and I like to call, the tampon. Sorry, but now maybe you can understand my feelings to the wall of meat and be able to see it as i do.

Although this show was based out of the UK, it still struck a chord close to home and made me realize I really am a lucky man. Lucky enough to at least have more options than the mega-market (Safeway), situated not too far away from the mid-level bustle of the Commercial Drive core. I love my neighbourhood....

Just north of the Broadway & Commercial intersection lies Donald's Market (their main location at Hastings & Nanaimo). If I'm in need of a major shop to replenish cabinet and fridge/freezer stock this is where I'm generally heading. On busy days it can be a bit hairy maneuvering yourself inside, dodging other shoppers as you all do a sort of dance around each other all while trying to grab various goods for consumption. I wouldn't even say that is a real bad point to the store. In fact, I'd say they completely make up for it by having a pretty good collection of vinegars and oils, as well as my wonderful British cookies and Happy Planet.

Next up is Dollar Grocers, located almost directly across the road from Donald's on Commercial. I don't go here as much but if I'm up this side of The Drive and in need of produce then this is my stop. Just look at the picture above, see the enveloping colour that surrounds and with the big yellow canopy, it almost helps nudge you in the door. Grab a J.J. Bean coffee right next door then take a walk through... not only are you invited by such a beautiful arrangement, there is also a nice supply of organics and bulk bins to greet you on the other side.

Last, but certainly not least, is my most frequented market on The Drive..... Santa Barbara. Not only is it the most convenient from my house........

Look at all that fresh produce just waiting to be eaten......

A small portion of the cheeses on display, a number of others they will portion out in slices or brick, your choice......

As well as having to mention the stacks of cured meats from our own Canadian, to Italy and Spain and back again. As with the cheeses, the wonderful people there will slice your desired amount to your desired thickness...... now that's service.

Oh, how could I forget the sausages..... maybe my favorite aspect of this store. I really don't mind taking a number and waiting for some of the beauty that lies behind the glass cased guardians of cured meats and sausages. Me being a pasta freak this store caters very nicely, with a fantastic arrangement of noodles, anchovies, Roma tomatoes and a shelf of olive oils displayed like trophies.

I really am a lucky man.

Tastes Likes Comfort

What is it about food? A simple bite can cause your thoughts to whisk you away from the time and place you happen to be, something so subtle yet so powerful all in the same instance. You're brought to an location within yourself where nothing matters but the taste, the memories and feelings it provides. The most beautiful part about this is you're not limited to simply one occurrence..... anything you eat can cause a sort of bond with life past, almost like as long as you can have that taste the moment will always be there.

There is comfort food because food is comfort. I'm trying to re-develop my priorities when it comes to how I cook. I used to cook simply to impress a taste for adventure, now I'm more focused on pleasing one's heart as well as their palate. Food is art, yes.... but it should become so because how it makes you feel, not just the colours and pretty arrangement on a plate.

Don't lose yourself or you'll lose what food should really be about..... the comforting taste.

Fall into Winter

Ahh yes.... Autumn is slowly creeping upon us, shortly before another winter arrives.

I have mixed feelings about these up-coming months. From a personal point of view I really enjoy them. To start, I'm a fall baby that is very much convinced these seasons have the best of holidays. Thanksgiving, Halloween and Christmas all have large emphasis on food. The cooling weather introduces an effect on the nature, producing so many beautiful colours and smells that flood the streets I walk. As a kid, I always related this time of the year to the beginning of another dreadful school year and the arrival of winter squash, always under the assumption they were merely decoration..... that's all they became in my home. Acorn, Butternut, Turban, Kabocha, Buttercup, Calabaza and the best known Pumpkin (which always was carved up, but never for cooking with exception to the seeds.... delicious).

It's been a long time since those days and I've now tasted a wide variety of winter squash with great love for every bite, maybe trying to make up for the lost time. Though more than just squash, this season is predominant for a huge array of amazing full flavoured fruits and vegetables. The juiciest plums, ripest figs, grapes with explosive taste, while not forgetting to mention it's time for the sweetest apples and pears in wide variety. The year round vegetables we generally eat like carrots, potatoes, onions also have a much more developed taste come this time of year. Fennel, corn, Jerusalem artichoke, celeriac and cabbage (which we can find all year but I see more as a fall/winter veg) all bring such robust and heart-warming flavours.... giving a feeling of absolute comfort against the almost too familiar harsh realities of Canadian winters (I'm located in Vancouver now but grew up in Southern Ontario.... trust me, I'm familiar with them).

While writing this, I have been doing a bit of reminiscing. While most think of Thanksgiving as a time for family... what happens when you are forced to spend that time at a distance? Just no possibility of being with them. A group of us decided to have an orphan Thanksgiving... friends coming together as family would; to eat, share, laugh and enjoy the company of others. With one of my best friends (Jason) by my side, we did up a turkey dinner for fourteen people all coming together from various locations on the planet. The reason this sticks out in my mind so vividly is a mystery, there must be some significance.... did it have something to do with the food, company, situation? Whatever the reason it has certainly helped to push me down a culinary path I'm excited to be walking.

I would have to say the only thing that may get a little tiring about these next few months would have to be the rush and headache brought on by the struggle to finally reach Christmas without loss of sanity. Nobody in the service industry gets any break this time of year and being involved in catering, we are usually booked for a solid month to month and a half before that "joyous" day. Don't get me wrong, I do like Christmas Day.... just not the excessive over-kill leading up to it. Sorry, I needed to bitch for a second.... I do absolutely love menu planning and development in any respect and in my opinion it's the most exciting time of year to do so. Oh and bring on the Christmas cake, egg nog, stollen and plum pudding. My belly is prepped and ready for the punishment.

Since beginning my culinary career I've grown to really appreciate the abundant amount of fall and winter produce and how to properly utilize them, so as to not get stuck in a rut with meal ideas, be it at home or work. I can't speak for anybody else but I can't be happy eating the same old holiday dinners every year. Turkey, mashed or roasted potato, some variety of steamed veg (most likely including brussels sprouts), stuffing, cranberry sauce and some sort of gravy. Throughout the next couple weeks I'll be giving some ideas to help break the mundane, maybe help make the holiday cooking seem like less of a chore.

Where Eatin' Meat and Morals Meet

I'm going to start by saying this may be a sensitive topic to some. The opinions I'll be expressing are solely my own and I don't necessarily expect you to agree with them, maybe just go into this post with a very open mind.

A few weeks ago I posed a question to my co-workers, "Would you ever eat dog or cat? No way being involved with the killing or cooking, but if it was presented to you just looking like cooked meat on a plate". Not unlike I'd planned, the large majority of people had a very big problem with the idea of it. It was stated that generally people couldn't stand the idea of eating something that can be considered such a close pet. While different cultures around the world with these animals as part of their diet, in the same respect may find a different animal to be in those same regards, not being able to bring themselves to stomach even a little nibble. Morals.

Maybe it's the natural desire to explore taste that has me very indifferent, as long as I didn't have to be part of the killing I would be interested to try. Don't get me wrong, I'm not on the hunt for St. Bernard Stew or anything.... but if the opportunity arose I wouldn't turn it down. I've eaten enough questionable food to make me desensitized, without question I would take a plate of pooch over natto (fermented soybean) with raw egg any day. There are also boundaries i stay within too... no rats (I think dirt and disease) and certain seafood just doesn't peak my curiosity, but that's just a matter of safety and taste preference.

I then began to wonder why most people only have this hard a time getting over dog and cat. What about rabbit and horse? I can find both of those in North American restaurants if I search enough, yet both these animals are highly regarded pets also. Just makes me question how far our morals really stretch.... think really hard, could you do it?

Pan Seared Salmon on Caramelized Apple & Fennel with a Maple Ginger Glaze

Welcome ladies & gentlemen, to the first of many recipes I'll be letting loose upon your eyes for your palate's indulgence. This particular recipe, not unlike most that will be displayed here, are merely experiments gone fantastically right. Fortunately I do have knowledge enough to realize what flavours will mingle with each other, therefore thankfully these recipes usually aren't complete shots in the dark. I do hope you enjoy.... I did.

Serves 2

2 6oz pieces of salmon (skin on but with scales removed)
1/2 medium size white onion, thinly sliced
1/2 Granny Smith apple, thinly sliced
1/2 bulb fennel, core removed and thinly sliced
6 tbsp maple syrup
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 1/2 tbsp minced ginger

fresh tarragon leaves

1. Preheat oven to 350 F
2. Place the sliced apple, fennel and onions in a frying pan with 6 tsp of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Saute on med-low heat, periodically stirring so as to develop even cooking throughout the dish, until they become a sort of caramel brown colour. make a small pile of mixture in the middle of the plate.
3. Heat up a pan on top element, high heat, until extremely hot, add a touch of oil and place salmon in skin side down. Continue to cook on that one side until skin becomes brown and crispy (not burnt). Turn over salmon on flesh side and place in oven. Remove from oven approx 5-6 min later (the salmon should be just starting to discharging a white substance from the flesh, don't be alarmed.... it just means delicious)
4. Remove salmon and place it on the caramelized apple and fennel. Using the same pan place back on the top element, med-high heat, add maple syrup, ginger and butter. Stir together until sauce thickens and starts foaming (should happen within about a minute of heating and mixing). Using a spoon, glaze over the salmon and surrounding plate.
5. Garnish with fresh tarragon.
6. Eat.

Food, Glorious Food!

I've thought long and hard about what I was going to write as an introduction piece, what could I possibly do to pull people in to comsume the ramblings that flow from my mind? Grasping at a handful of ideas, some too involved, while some just too risky to start with. I finally decided to focus on nothing more than an introduction as to why I would do this. Get the formalities over with and from then on just dive into the juicy bits...... the meat of it all.

So, Hello.... I'm Oliver. I've been cooking professionally for the last 13 years, in varying styles and structures of restaurants.... I've pretty much seen and done it all. Everything from corporate kitchens, Mom & Pop shops, open concept to the point of being almost surrounded by customers... that one and I didn't exactly mix. At present I'm working in a catering kitchen and it is glorious! I can't say often enough how my life now feels like semi-retirement.

No more Friday night chit machines spewing their hate upon me, the enslaving inferno of a kitchen in the middle of a summer death heat wave! Sweating, swearing and swiggin shots of cooking brandy to just make it through. Fights with wait staff, all the while knowing they are just the middle-men to the customers, yet still wanting nothing more than to rip their face off mid-service. The night does eventually end, everyone makes amends and for all the amount of ass kicking you get from every bill you recieve...... there's just something there that keeps bringing you back. There is a magic to the kitchen... the sounds, smells, colours and if it all works just right there's a sense of true poetry in motion.

This being said, can I stay semi-retired forever? Most likely not, at some point i'll have to re-immerse myself in the chaos. There's just no escape from that love. I think, those of us in this industry can agree that it's our passion and determination to know more that really defines us in the kitchen... this is why I do it.